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Barging in France
A relaxing and intimate way to enjoy the French countryside By CYNTHIA DADDONA
Agents looking for something different to offer their clients will find barging in France a nice option. Clients have the experience of gliding down the peaceful French canals in a cozy boat and exploring the tiny villages, riding bikes or sitting in a cafe.
When some Americans first hear the term barging, they envision a trip on board a not so comfortable vessel that used to transport coal, lumber, grain or even oil. While barges did carry cargo before the introduction of trains and trucks, today their main use is to carry passengers.
"Barges on the French canals were almost at the point of extinction until private owners and companies bought the barges, gutted them and installed cabins," says Alba Paterson, who was in charge of sales and marketing for Le Boat, Inc. "Today, barges are cozy and some truly elegant." Agents can rest assured that their clients will not be sleeping on bags of grain but, instead, will experience many of the amenities available in a four and five star hotel.
Types of barging
Self-drive barging (without a crew) is an economical way to discover France - which has more than 5,000 miles of canals. "No special skill is needed to pilot the boats or assist the canal lockkeepers with the gates," says Evelyn Gresser of Le Boat. Mrs. Gresser grew up in a boating atmosphere on Cape Cod and founded Le Boat in 1979 to promote worldwide holidays on water. All information on how to pilot a barge on the canals is sent to the client prior to departure.
"This is a very active vacation; you drive the boat, buy groceries from the village, ride the bikes carried on board and tie up wherever you'd like whether it's someone's backyard or a chateau," says Ms. Paterson. "Self-drive barging appeals to people who like to do their own thing, run their own business and drive their own boat. It's great for all ages, especially doctors, lawyers, young adventurers, groups of friends and families. A lot of our clients are from repeat business."
"It's a more athletic way to experience a culture. It's an adventure instead of sitting in the back of a bus," says Eastern France Tourist Board Director Stephanie Jukes.
Sue Collopy of Chicago agrees. Mrs. Collopy and her husband, along with another couple, rented a small self-drive boat to explore the Alsace/Lorraine region of France. "It's a chance to do something active. It's a great way to see a country and have a different experience. You get to go to the markets and be more involved in the French way of life," says Mrs. Collopy. "My husband loves driving the boat, and we ladies do the ropes." The boat the Collopys rented was a Crown Blue Line vessel. Le Boat is the appointed U.S. general sales agent for Crown Blue Line ( now owned by LeBoat). It is the largest operator of canal boat rentals in France. The company has been in business for 40 years with a fleet of more than 400 boats at 16 bases.
The boats have room for two to twelve passengers in double and twin cabins with full bathrooms with showers. The galleys are modern and equipped with refrigerators, gas stoves and cooking and eating utensils. Maps and information regarding villages in the region, restaurants and a French/English menu dictionary are also included with each self-drive boat.
Hotelbarge
A hotel barge (complete with captain and crew) is another way to see France. One example is the Stella - an elegant barge that was completely renovated and can accommodate seven to eight people. "The atmosphere of each barge depends on the personality of the crew," says Ms. Paterson. The Stella's "personality" comes from the Gozens ~ a spirited Dutch couple. Captain Berend calls himself the"captain/tour guy" and his wife, Barbara, "the marvelous cook and painter." Mrs. Gozen's art work decorates the boat's interior. According to Mr. Gozen, Stella's clients are 75 percent Americans, who enjoy barging through the Alsace/Lorraine region. The Gozens have added a spring trip to see the tulips blossom in Holland - the result of requests from their repeat clients. The price: $2,800 to $3,600 per person with meals.
Self-barging costs
Le Boats self-drive barges such as the deluxe Countess - range from $2,115 per week during the low season to $3,840 during the high season. The Countess has two cabins and can sleep six. The prices do not include diesel fuel or bikes.
Itinerary
Clients can contact Le Boat for a catalog and discuss the variety of regions, including Burgundy (known for its wine), Brittany and the popular Alsace-Lorraine. Our Le Boat self-drive barge trip was to the Alsace-Lorraine region - located in the eastern part of France next to the German border. The Alsace-Lorraine region is a mixture of German and French history. This is a result of a tug of war between the two countries. In 1871, the Germans took over Alsace and then France seized it back in World War I. Hitler retook the region during World War Il and it was returned to France during the Liberation. This gives travelers a region filled with a great mix of French and German architecture, art, wine and food.
For our barge trip, we flew on Air France from Newark into Paris' Orly South airport, and then an Air Inter hour-long flight from Paris to Strasbourg, the capital of Alsace. Our boat, the Challenger, was waiting for us at the Alsace Crown Blue Line base in Hesse. Our first stop was Strasbourg where we visited the Chapelle des Cordeliers, home to Marc Chagall's largest stained glass work.
Along the way, we stopped whenever we wanted to see a sight, ride bikes or pick up some groceries or croissants from the village pastry shop. The docks were peaceful and decorated with flower boxes. Most sights are within walking or bicycling distance. If there are any questions or problems, Crown Blue Line can be contacted by phone for assistance.
One place we docked was Niderviller. There we visited the Vallerysthal crystal factory in Trois Fontaines, which has a behind-the-scene tour open to the public, and the Faiencerie factory, one of the oldest earthenware manufacturers in France.
In Lutzelbourg, military buffs can see the historic war museum of Phalsbourg. Our curator, Antoine Schrube, explained the museum represents "a celebration of peace and not war."
While barging, one can eat on board, dine in cafes, wine bars or a gourmet French restaurant such as the one-star Michelin rated Soldat de L'An II in Phalsbourg. Chef Georges Schmitt, his wife Dany and their dog Griotte are all a part of the French feast. Chef Schmitt says that, if boaters call ahead, the restaurant will arrange to pick them up at the dock.
The trip also included a stop in the forest-outfined town of Dabo and Saverne, located at the foot of the Vosges Mountains. Saverne's sights include a majestic castle and the Katz pub, a lively place to dine on Alsatian food. Inside the pub, you can listen to live music and sample Baeckaoffa, a tasty casserole of lamb, potatoes and onions.
When our boat trip ended, we stayed in Strasbourg before flying back to Paris. This capital of Alsace is a storybook town that makes you feel as if you are visiting a part of Germany without leaving France. The timbered houses and sauerkraut cuisine show the Germanic culture while the museums of French Impressionist paintings and the neighborhood called La Petite France are truly French.
One of the town's highlights is the majestic Notre Dame Cathedral also called le grand ange rose de Strasbourg - the great pink angel of Strasbourg. The cathedral ranks among the highest in France. Inside the cathedral is the famous astronomical clock at which everyone gathers at 12:30 to watch as the apostles' figurines march by and a rooster crows.
Two small European Strasbourg hotels to stay in are Hotel de L'Europe and Hotel Hannong. Prices start at $100 per room. Both are located within walking distance of the areas called La Petite France and the Quartier des Taneurs (Tanners'Quarter). Hotel L'Europe has modern art in the rooms and a model of the cathedral in the lobby and Hotel Hannong has fresh flowers in the rooms with sculptures and artwork in the lobby.
This September, the Alsace Route des Vins (wine road) celebrated its 40th anniversary, an event that has fairy-talelike villages such as Dambach-la-Ville, Colmar and Riquewihr proudly celebrating the Alsace region wines: Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Muscat, Tokay Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and a popular dry fruity wine of the region called Gewurtraminer. Contact the French Government Tourist Office in New York for information on car rentals and tours through the wine region.
"Paris is so popular that we do not have to do any promoting at all," says Mrs. Jukes. "Americans definitely like to combine visiting a region in France with a trip to Paris and it's pretty rare that, during their trip, they are not going to visit Paris."
