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The family Vacation You Will Never Forget

CRUISES BIG AND SMALL

If you seek a more intimate, idiosyncratic experience, you could explore the Maine coast on a private windjammer, charter a sailboat to bum around the Caribbean, or even steer a barge through the waterways of Europe. Unlike crewing a sailboat, bare-boating a barge (i.e., crewing it yourself) requires no previous experience and is surprisingly affordable.

Evelyn Gresser and 10 members of her family celebrated her husband's 70th birthday on a barge in France. "It's extremely easy," says Gresser, president of Le Boat, a company that charters barges. "Your transportation is built in, and you choose the pace. If you find a likable location, you just stay." They received a quick but complete piloting lesson before starting out. And, although one son-in-law fell into a canal, she insists handling the boat was a cinch.

Life onboard was la vie en rose. "The first one up would head for the town bakery-the children were in heaven when they discovered chocolate croissants. The food was reasonable in cost, and at restaurants my 3-year-old grandson would order saumon fume [smoked salmon] in French, and the staff would just dote on him."

The barge had bicycles onboard, so the adults could explore markets and churches. The kids, quickly learned to handle the lines and the locks and, according to Gresser, even liked learning another language. Her favorite moment of the trip, however, occurred a year after they returned. "My young grandson said, 'Grandma, its April. Aren't we supposed to be in France?' "

Barges can be chartered from Le Boat ; the cost per week for crewed barges is about $2, 500 -$4,500 per person, uncrewed ones start at about $1,800. The Barge Connection also charters crewed barges; the cost per week is $2, 500 -$4,500 per person.